
Lets explore some advance AI techniques to make rendering products super simple. Shoes are really easy to render in Illustrator, and I’ve had a special request to show some shoe design techniques, so check out the final image and lets get crackin’.
I’m going to approach this really slowly at first to demonstrate techniques, and then send you off on your own to figure out the rest. I’m supplying the final illustrator file for your reference, and as always, don’t hesitate to ask if you’ve got questions!
Final Image (.png)
Final AI file (.zip)

Here’s my “buck”, just a basic shoe shape I’ll start with.

I highly recommend working with at least a few layers so you can turn them on and off as needed.

I use the brush tool inside AI to sketch in some basic ideas and figure out a plan.


Afterwards I can lock the sketch layer, dim it, and create real lines. At this point the lines are all just open paths.

I highly recommend making all logos and other repetitive elements out of “symbols”. Symbols will a) decrease filesize, and b) allow you to change the logo later as needed. In this case it’s no big deal, but it’s a good habit. Plus you can keep all of your logos in a symbol library for easy access in all of your projects.



At this point we’ve drawn all of our basic lines on their own layer, but they’re open curves: aka not easy to fill.

I like to work fast and sloppy so that I can make adjustments as I go. That said, what we’re going to do here is create a “clipping mask” to put everything in, so that we can go outside our shoe boundaries real-messy-like and everything will stay ‘clipped’ within it. So draw another outline, this time right around the perimeter of the shoe.

Once you’ve drawn your outline, make sure it’s on TOP of all the other open paths, then hit Ctrl+7 (Object>Clipping Mask>Make).

Now that everything’s clipped, you can select the clipping path itself and give it a fill (just to make it easy to see).



As with any group, double-clicking outlines the object in gray lines, signifying that you are working “locally” to the current group. This means you can use the regular-old closed-arrow tool to drag around elements, and you can also draw new ones as needed. This is VERY VERY handy. We’re going to spend most of the remainder of this tutorial double-clicked inside this clipping group.

Go through and close each of your paths, creating points as needed outside the clipping path. Notice that the shapes are automatically clipped! Try your Ctrl+[ and Ctrl+] keys… still work, but within the group! Pretty fancy, huh? Make sure you completely CLOSE all paths, because some of our tricks down the line won’t work if you don’t.



So now that we’ve closed up all of our shapes, lets get to work on some shading!







To make a shape “pop”, I use “inner glow” and “drop shadow” a lot, depending on the situation. Play around with them.


Okay, get ready for this: we can add multiple strokes to a single path, and offset them from each other. You got it: if we do it this way, making changes to the original line will change all of its offsets!! This is a HUGE creativity/productivity boost.


Note the appearance palette. The “offset path” effect can be dragged around to affect different fills and strokes. Option-drag it to duplicate it. Any effect you apply will show up in the appearance palette, and can be applied to any given stroke or fill, or the whole object. Order matters too, as you’ll quickly discover!

So if we were lazy bums, we could just make our stitches this way. We’d do an offset path, and apply a dash to it. But that’s for lazy people :)

What we’ll do is define a quick brush with a more complex stitch look. Make sure to use a global color swatch to color the thread. That will make it MUCH easier to adjust the color later.


When you make a pattern brush, the objects should be horizontal.


Voila! Now you know how to make a stitch.

Drag it to the little “new” icon at the bottom of the appearance palette to duplicate it, and double the offset value.

…And magically we have two strokes!

Make another brush like this.




Starting to come to life, eh? Now we get into some complex light and shadow.




This is a sweet trick. To make complex shadows on an object, I just make multiple gradients via the appearance palette, and make them either multiply (for shadows) or screen (for highlights).










The 3D Extrude & Bevel tool is a great idea, but in my experience it almost never works the way you want it to. It’s actually pretty crappy. But for a simple shape like th is, it works pretty well. The settings are too complex to go over here. Just play with it.

Not bad, eh?


When you start getting all the right highlights and shadows in there, things start to really pop.

That’s all, folks! Tune in next week!
Final Image (.png)
Final AI file (.zip)
June 28th, 2007 at 3:58 am
This slow illustration (in both sense :) is quite helpful. Thanks for sharing it.
June 28th, 2007 at 4:04 am
Sure! If you have any topic requests, just let me know.
June 28th, 2007 at 6:46 am
Thanks again Adam! nice job
July 1st, 2007 at 5:20 pm
Awesome tutorial Adam! :)
July 1st, 2007 at 6:49 pm
Thanks guys! This was a fun one.
December 11th, 2007 at 11:39 am
Fantastic tutorial Adam. Many thanks.
May 9th, 2008 at 9:05 pm
hey adam!
Nice to read your posting! I am trying to learn AI CS3. Have you gone to school of design before?
At this moment, I am working in a shoes company called Benebis in Japan. I am thinking one day to have my own shoes line. A ballet/flat shoes line.
Nice to know you! I hope you can post more tutorial.
best,
Jasmine
May 10th, 2008 at 5:52 am
Hi Tasniem:
Yes, I majored in Industrial Design at the Columbus College of Art and Design in Ohio. Glad you enjoyed the tutorial. Are there any topics in particular you’d like to see more of?
June 19th, 2008 at 10:48 am
Adam- This tutorial is amazing. I’m having one problem, using CS2, when I try to double a stitch and offset it, it offsets on both sides and makes a square of the stitch around the first stitch. Any idea how to fix that so it’s just the two stitches and not one line of stitch with another box of stitch around it??
June 19th, 2008 at 11:31 am
Hi Kelly. Thanks! Let me know if there are other topics you’d like to see covered.
As for the offset issue, you’ve discovered one of the most annoying things about AI’s offset tool. When you offset a closed path, it creates a single, closed offset curve in one direction (controlled by positive or negative offset values). If you offset an OPEN path, however, it offsets in both directions. You can get around this by doing what I did in the tutorial: using closed paths to define your stitches, and hiding the undesired “extra” parts of the shape behind the clipping mask.
I hope that makes sense!
July 3rd, 2008 at 2:28 pm
Hi Adam,
I’m teaching shoemaking and shoedesign in Belgium.
My students use a manual I made, showing them how to design shoes by hand. In that manual is explained how to work with photoshop, starting from a scanned drawing.
Your rendered shoe looks good, but could be even better if you scan in some real leather or mesh. Your stiches should be touching eachother.
Great work!
July 3rd, 2008 at 6:27 pm
Thanks for the feedback, Roel. I’m not a shoe designer, so I really don’t know anything about it! I created this post because a friend of mine asked what AI techniques I would use to draw a shoe. This is probably not what I would do if I were actually rendering a shoe for work. Thanks for the feedback!
December 4th, 2008 at 1:36 am
Wonderful tutorial, thanks a lot!